So that completes my 2nd to last day and I have to say that it was indeed amazing in its own unique kind of way, just like every day off has been. It seems that under every rock, around every bend in the railway tracks that I travel, at random little train stations await unexpected experiences that draw me deeper into the heart of Japan and the people that live here, and the deeper I go the more comfortable I get with being willing to adventure into uncharted territory. I wonder how many adventures have surrendered to this path before, I wonder if these parts are used to seeing travelers passing through who look bewildered and amazed, and I wonder if they realize how fortunate they really are; because beauty is plenty and kindness a way of life. Here, if you lose something more than likely you will get it back. People put aside in obvious places items that others have dropped, forgotten, and misplaced and there they will sit for months until reunited with their keeper. Why? Well quoting one person, “because it’s the nice thing to do”. Right, it is that simple. And that is partly what I love about it…the simplicity. No drama talking cell phone conversations, cell phone beeps, chimes, and text messaging whistles going off every second. No hurrying, rushing, running, cutting people off, road rage, horns, it’s super chill. I’ve witnessed town people greeting everyone, including strangers, and obvious foreigners like me, with smiles and bows, taking time to stop and talk, even sitting down over a cup of really good tea. The pace is humane. I’ve had countless numerous people literally take the time and hold my hand, to walk with me, to show me the way. Before I left, 2 months came and went and seemed like nothing. Here, at a slower pace in a more simple life, 2 months is a really long time. I‘ve met beautiful people, made new friends. I’ve had experiences that others will never know and may not understand. Yes, my heart has been touched in profound ways. I’ve seen the eyes and expression on the faces of people that are so profoundly beautiful that light exudes from them like a flower that grows in relation to the sun. I have found that it is in the outskirts where hearts are big and companions are plenty. It makes me want to get off at every train station just to wander.
This week, I was kind of unsure where I wanted to go. In conversation and thought, a city called Karatsu, whose symbol is a big red fish sitting on a castle, came up several times and trusting a hunch, I went. However on the way, I wanted to stop in a city called Ochi just out of Karatsu as there was a sacred cave I wanted to see. Like my other adventures, not knowing what lay in store, I walked into another world.
The Ochi train station was small and there was one woman working who upon arrival sort of caught me by surprise. She was a 64 year old youthful looking womyn with an amazingly radiant smile wearing bright pink. I was trying to get the train schedule for going on to Karatsu so I could gauge how much time I had at the cave, as well as find out where exactly the cave was in relation to the train station. Always a language barrier, a brightly colored younger girl dressed for an adventure in Karatsu came into the train station, and the lady attendant called her over, she knew a little more English and so she helped with communication, then had to go catch the train. She was delightfully bright and friendly like a butterfly in a fleeting moment. The older lady motioned over to a large oval shaped table in the train station lobby and said, “Japanese tea, we make fresh”. So I sat at the table and she came out from behind the counter with 2 cups of tea on a tray. Set it down and told me to drink. She then returned with a paper and pen, where she proceeded to sit down next to me, drinking tea, and hand drawing me a map of the city, complete with the location of places that I can identify to help me navigate through to the cave along with shortcuts. When she would run into trouble communicating in English, she’d call over people buying train tickets and they would sit down with ear to ear smiles helping to compose this map. It was quite the community effort to help me find my way and I couldn’t believe how many people were so willing to help, sit down, have tea, and help with this map. It became a social project. Several other ladies came in and we sat there drinking more tea, attempting to communicate, smiling, and laughing. Everyone knew everyone and this little train station, where the train station ladies who worked there offered comers and goers hand brewed Japanese tea appeared to be a central meeting point. Some people came to meet friends, have tea, sit down at the table, never to get on a train but to leave back out to the town again. After several cups of tea, having my photo taken by towns people, I was then motioned to use a bike to bike to the cave. Off I went, all warm and glowy from within. I was so caught by the experience it wasn’t until out riding that I realized that this bike was really way too small for a person my height. My legs didn’t extend even when I sat on the bike and when riding my knees where sticking out over my toes and it became quite hard to pedal, and impossible up the big hill that led to the cave, so I got off and pushed it up the hill.
The path up to the cave was not that impressive. There was some small industry and a smoke stack that smelled like burnt toast blowing white smoke into the air. I thought, yuck, what is that. Do I really want to come here. I really wanted to bail, but figured I’d go just because I was not far and so much effort had went into the map and getting me there, I had to atleast go. At the top of the hill was an onsen, an evacuation route, and a trail that led down through some underbrush. Once on the other side of the hill from the smoke stack, the scenery changed into dense forest with mossy trees and moist rocks. I climbed down the side embankment of a steep side cliff through the forest scene, rounded some corners, and came upon a rock ledge that was out of this world. It looked like a big open mouth. There was water dripping off the front end from about 50 feet up. The first thing I noticed about the space was the sound of water droplets falling to the earth echoing from the cave behind. It sounded like a well mastered recording. As I walked into the cave, I began to see old stone Buddhas carved into the cave walls. Everything was moss soaked and bathing in a bright green hue. The rock formations were large, intricate, and well preserved. Faces began to appear from everywhere and I had the inclination I was not alone. This place was alive. The rocks themselves with voices began to sing, and the sun light bounced off the water droplets, the trees roots vibrating through the earth like a heartbeat and I got lost in time here for a while. When a Japanese couple appeared from the trees, I decided that I would move on and give them private time to explore.
On my way back I stopped by a gas station and had the bike seat lifted. I then continued to ride around the town seeing what was there. Mostly open space, rice fields, green terrain, a few village homes, and a beautiful crisp river. Several hours had passed and I decided it was time to go back and continue on to Karatsu. Upon arriving back at the train station, the older lady who originally helped me was getting off work. She said here, you sit, more tea. She and a few other ladies got a kick out of the bike seat being so tall. We all sat drinking more tea when the idea was presented that she take me to a waterfall that is one of Japans’ most impressive and famous waterfalls. I agreed. We got in her car and drove about 20 minutes up to what was indeed one of the most beautiful waterfalls I have seen. Cascading in a series of three tiers from over 100 feet up was a strong, thunderously powerful free flow of water falling to a pool of rushing water that flowed down a mountain river stream. A rock bridge had been built over the base, then another bridge slightly further down stream allowing for places to stop and reflect or take photos. Me and my new friend stood there gazing at the water fall, smiling, she seemed to not be in a hurry, neither was I. She took me down the other side, and showed me all the places to take the best photos, she seemed to go there often, and knew just where to go. I learned that she is a single lady, never married, she has no children, but has 30 cats all with different names and lives in a 150 – 200 year old beautiful old Japanese architecturally built home at the base of a mountain just 5 minutes away. She was such a hip womyn and I enjoyed being in her presence. She was excited to tell me about her trip to California many years ago to visit a friend and that she had been at the Nagasaki Lantern Festival the week before. After a small heartfelt adventure, it was time for me to go back to the train station where we continued to sit and sip tea, meeting other towns people who also came in for tea. When my train time drew near, she grabbed me by the hand and proceeded to walk with me hand in hand up the steps over the bridge and down the other side to wait for the train. She looked at me with the most beautiful eyes and wanted to know if she could see me again, then we hugged. At that moment, the brightly colored younger girl had just gotten back from her adventure in Karatsu and came running over waving, with big smiles at about the time my train rolled up. I walked on, my eyes welling up, turned to see them waving and smiling, they wanted me to stay, drink more tea, yet Karatsu called and off I rolled looking behind at them waving me good bye, the last thing I heard was my lady friend telling me to have a good adventure. I spent the next 30 minutes trying to fight back tears as it occurred to me that I am going to really miss this place. It is going to be hard to go back home as I will forever long for the simple, whole, and deep heart connections I’ve made. I found myself wishing I had not left and considering that perhaps I should have stayed. At which point I chose to enter into a meditation, while looking at the beautiful Japan countryside passing me by from the train window, on impermanence. It was a good point for me leave, all comings have goings and all meetings have partings. Any time is as good as another, and if I would have stayed it may have been harder to leave.
Karatsu was a cute town. I went to a pine tree forest lined beach, listened to the sound of the waves crashing into the sand. The beach had more whole shells of many different types than I’ve ever seen on a beach. As I sat on the beach in a setting sun reflection, right in front of me, about 2 feet landed a giant Raven. He cawed three times, then just stood there. He didn’t seem to mind that I was so close. We sat there for a good 10 minutes, me frozen in space as I didn’t want to scare him off. I was taking his photo, he seemed to like that. I had the urge to get up and begin walking down the beach, I said good bye to Raven, and walked about 20 steps when he flew right in front of me making me stop. He came from the ocean side circled me then flew toward the top of the beach landing on a triangular shaped sign pointing up to the sky. I got the impression he wanted me to follow him, so I did. I walked right up to him and proceeded to stand there another 10 or so minutes, looking up to him, him looking down at me. We locked eyes, and I’m not sure what was going on but I felt a strong connection with this Raven bird, as I usually do but this one was trusting of me and willing to come really close. There were some distractions off in the pine trees and the Raven’s attention was drawn there, came back to me, and after another 5 minutes or so, he said good bye and flew off. I turned around and up to me walked an older lady who had been walking the beach from the Karatsu castle and had a bag of shells she had collected, and wanted to give me the bag of shells. I was hesitant at first, but she insisted and so I graciously accepted.
My train ride home was filled with emotional responses to a magical day. As the end draws near, I find myself in a reflective space. So much has happened, I feel like I have been to the moon and back, it seems I’ve been gone an eternity. So far from home, Japan feels right with my pace and how I like to live. I enjoy the kindness of people and I enjoy being kind to people. I love bowing to show respect and dwell in the simplicity. Looking forward to my kitchen, health food, and the people I miss and love back home is what is keeping me grounded in my return. However, the magic that has unfolded here, not only from the 300 shows we have performed and the dance commraderie we have built, but from the new friendships, the weekly adventures, and the simple magic that is Japan, has changed me in a deep subtle kind of way. When the plates shift in deep ways sometimes it takes time for the changes to become obvious on the surface. Therefore, I gather that upon my return, I will have a long reflective process ahead of me as I make sense of all that has transpired. For now, I can say that to know Japan, requires a prolonged stay with total immersion and a willingness to let the heart be touched and the comings and goings of the mind to melt into a simple stillness.
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